Sewing Tips and Tricks, Uncategorized

Adding Pockets and Making Luca Reversible!

I love pockets in the winter, especially our cold ones in the PNW. Now you may be asking yourself, why doesn’t she wear gloves? Two words… little kids. I was inspired to make this coat with pockets and a full lining. In my photos I am wearing it with a short sleeve shirt underneath and standing in 40 degree weather. I was so warm and didn’t even feel a hint of wind breaking through. The best thing about this jacket is it’s oversized feel, I could have definitely gotten a thick sweater or sweatshirt underneath.
This hack is to showcase pockets but the way I did the construction actually made it reversible. Can you believe it?! Using solid and print with the charcoal grey color allows me to wear the print side with solid color bottoms and the solid with print bottoms. In short this is a comfy cozy indispensable coat for your wardrobe. … anyone screaming capsule wardrobe yet? Let’s get started!
I really want to recommend you test out your size first. This takes about 3 yards per coat. That’s a lot of fabric to waste if you need adjustments to your fit. Once you are certain of your size and fabrics cut out 1 full coat from each fabric excluding the front facing. The front facing would only be used in an unlined coat for help stabilizing the front pieces and button holes, in addition to giving it a nice finish. I borrowed my pocket pieces from the Lazy Day skirt and cut out 4 pieces from each fabric.
When attaching your pockets to your coat, it will come down to preference. I like mine a little low since I find most RTW jacket pockets to be on the high side. I placed the top of my pocket 10 inches down from the arm pit on each piece. Remember to place both pocket pieces right sides together on both the front and back pieces and then stitch. Sew up each coat by following the directions in the pattern including the hood or collar.
When sewing your side seams, sew down from the arm to the hem making sure to also sew around your pocket.
Let’s take a pause to think about closures. I decided on buttons and elastic but you could use toggles on either side. Buttons and button holes with be personal preference. To make the jacket close properly for a woman to wear would mean two sets of button holes and 8 buttons. You could get away with making one set of button holes and doubling up buttons (sewing through 2 buttons one on either side of your coat). This would mean one way would close to the left and then to the right when it is reversed.
So if you are going the elastic route like mine then you will add them when you pin your lining. I actually used thick elastic unused hair ties. I like using these because they are the perfect size. I pin them with my desired loop size onto the right side of my main fabric before squishing them between the lining.
Now for the fun part. Pin your collar or hood to your main fabric with right side together. Then pin your lining to your coat with right sides together. This will take a lot of pins and patience. Make sure to not pull the fabric it should line up beautifully.
Mark a 7 inch hole (I do this by adding a 2nd pin on either side) on the bottom of your coat to pull one through the other. Leave the wrist hems alone for now.
Sew all the way around the outside. Pull the hood out of the hole you left followed by the rest of the coat. A nice topstitch all the way around will make it look amazing.
Push your sleeve lining into the main sleeve. Pin both of your sleeves down a 1/2 inch and then topstitch them together. The only thing left is to sew on buttons!!!

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